![]() Įdit - just searched for 78_ based switching regulator circuits & found several using pretty much an identical and familiar-looking configuration, though my version was adapted for much higher current & variable voltage: The voltage adjustment is the slotted pot on the rear panel. The left hand front panel switch is the on/off one and the right is a spring loaded one that switches the meter to voltage rather than current, while pressed. The aluminium can across in front of the transformer is a mains RFI filter. The socket at the top of the back panel with white wires is a plug-in 12V output for equipment, the bottom corner socket is main input. Well, it still works, so it can't be all that bad! Most of the other small components are on the tagboard. The diode that goes with that is attached directly to the top of the larger cap and insulated with duct tape ![]() The blue capacitor is the output smoothing and the round aluminium item at the side of the two caps in the top view is a large "pot core", with the winding for the inductor. The bridge rec is the part with four upright terminals bolted to the base of the case in front of the big capacitor & the big silver cap the initial smoothing from that. I remember the principle but have no idea of the actual circuit, so I cannot provide that, sorry. The outline regulator was in the applications notes of a data book, for some make of 78xx or 317 voltage regulator, using one of those as voltage sense and a "high current" driver for external transistors with some positive feedback for hysteresis. The only transformer I could obtain at the time that had an adequate power rating was a 24V one, far too high to regulate conventionally to 12V or less without dissipating crazy amounts of heat - so it's a "secondary switcher" design, what would now be called a buck regulator. It also has 40 year accumulation of dust inside, which I cannot remove from the deeper recesses easily but it's a realistic DIY high current adjustable supply, if a slightly odd one. ![]() The construction is somewhat primitive and cringeworthy by my presents standards, but it is around 40 years old I remember building it when I still has a shed as a workshop at my parents house. Or this is something similar to what you want, as a DIY one I remembered seeing it in my garage a few weeks ago while looking for some other items. The whole system was installed in 2009/2010.If you want an off-the-shelf one, look at an EP-925, sold under various brand names Manson, Voltcraft etc. There were no storms/power outages in the timeframe I'm talking about. Or some part of the circuit that it is on. Or - that third switch somehow plays into this and it failed. That system indicates the lights come on when I walk under the motion detectors (even though they do not).įeels like the motion detectors are fine, the processors are fine, but something (?) has failed between the series 4 processor and the switches (or both the switches failed. Our Homeworks system is also connected to an ELAN system. There is a third switch next to those two that seems to control nothing but does show voltage when the grey/purple wires are each touched with the voltmeter. The light switches still turn on the lights when pushed, but there is no voltage at the black/red wires that connect to the purple/gray ones on either switch. I am ASSUMING the black and red wires from BUS 3 go to the 2 light switches that control the lights on the stairs (that should be activated by the motion detector). The orange light goes out when I disconnect the BUS. BUS3 on the outlet shows a blinking green light (TX) but a solid orange one (RX). Green lights are on where the daisy chain feed (link 6) comes into the 4 series processor. (Interestingly, when I pass under the other two, it does not. When I pass under one of the SPY monitors, the motion detector feed at the CCI shows a voltage. The green LED is on where the motion detector feed comes into the CCI. ![]() That panel is daisy chained to a 4 series processor (and an 8 series, but I don't think that one comes into play here) The motion detector feed comes into a Lutron HWI-CCI-8 in the basement. (lights still work, but not via motion detector)Ĭhecked (and rebooted) the power supply to the motion detectors. We have 3 Visonic Spy 4 motion detectors on our stairs that control 2 sets of lights. ![]()
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